We are discussing the general setup for the Fanz Live Tropical and Coldwater aquarium. The differences between Tropical and Coldwater aquariums are assumed to be understood by everyone and hence will not be discussed in great detail. Below is a breakdown of the comparison of the two types of aquarium. Cold Water -Low Variety of Species, High Availability, Low Fish-stocking density, Low cost of set-up Tropical – High Variety of species, High Availability, High Fish-stocking density, Low cost of set-up.
Essential Aquarium Guide in Few Words.
Start-up equipment needed for both types of aquariums:
- – Aquarium Tank
- – Hood
- – Filter
- – Substrate
- – Water conditioners
- – Test kit
- – Thermometer
- – Heater (Tropical)
- – Decoration
- – Stand
When choosing your first tank, take time before purchasing to ensure that you are buying the right tank for you and your fish. There’s a wide range of tank designs available, but the one preferred generally is the standard rectangular shaped tank. This is because rectangular tanks, being 2 or 3 times as long as they are wide, have a large surface area for the exchange of gases and oxygen uptake by the water. Also, better for them in terms of the swimming space it provides. Bigger is better for any aquarium, as even a large aquarium is tiny compared to the natural range that any fish has been used to in the wild. The larger the tank, the more water it will hold and the more fish it will sustain and support. It will also provide more stable water conditions than a small tank.
Below is a guide to stocking level:
- Coldwater — 2.5cm (1 in) of fish per 60 sq cm (9.3 sq in) of tank water surface area
- Tropical — 2.5cm (1 in) of fish per 30 sq cm (4.65 sq in) of tank water surface area
- Note: The surface area of the aquarium is calculated by multiplying the length by the width.
Serve as a place for your lightings. Unless you have an open concept setup, it is generally an essential part of the tank. Lower evaporation rate of the water, preventing dust from getting into the tank, and preventing fish from jumping out of the aquarium are vital aspects of having a hood.
Filtration is the life-support system for any aquarium and is vitally important for the well-being of the fish that live within it. Without exception, all aquarium fish need filtered water that is free from pollutants, which is left to build up can be hazardous to their health. Unfiltered aquariums are not safe for living fish since, unless the water is changed several times a day, fish become poisoned by their waste products and may die as a result.
Type of Filtration (Specific info about filtration coming soon):
Mechanical Filtration is carried out by passing water through media designed to trap particles and remove them from the water column. Mechanical filter media can be a sponge or fine wool and are cheap and readily available. Most filters work mechanically, and the effectiveness of the process is indicated by the way the tank water clears.
Biological Filtration – This method harnesses the power of nature by providing areas within the filter where microscopic bacteria can live and multiply. The media should have a high surface area about their volume so that more bacteria can live within the space. All tanks will have some natural biological filter either from the bacteria that live on the surface of the substrate or the surface of the plants.
Chemical Filtration – This process removes chemical pollutants and metals from the water by special absorbent resins and granules. Once saturated, the media are typically spent, so they are then discarded and replaced. The most common chemical medium available is aquarium-grade carbon, which can remove dyes, odors, and medications from tank water and chlorine from tap water.
The substrate of any aquarium is the material placed on the bottom of the tank for decoration. Traditional substrates include sands and gravels, which can be found naturally in any body of water. In most freshwater aquariums, the substrate should be inert, which means that it will not dissolve or leach elements into the water, particularly any that may affect the pH of the tank water.
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